Glow Up, Not Peel Off: The Gentle Reality of Today's Chemical Peels

Forget what you think you know about chemical peels. At Noaem Skin we’re transforming how our clients experience these powerful skin treatments. Modern chemical peels have evolved far beyond their intimidating reputation – many now incur zero downtime and can easily fit into your lunch break. Whether you’re battling sun damage, struggling with pigmentation, fine lines, or uneven texture, today’s gentle facial peels offer remarkable results without the dramatic peeling process many fear.

When we utter the words ‘Chemical Peel’ at Noaem SkinClinic, we usually get two types of responses:

Absolute delight at a new peel option to try out
A visible recoil of the person with a look of uncertainty/suspicion/absolute fear!

It doesn’t take us long to explain (and set minds at ease!) about these fascinating products which can have a great effect on the condition of the skin. Although it is still possible to have super strong peels which require a significant amount of downtime, things have moved on considerably.

Many peels now have barely any visible downtime and can be treated as a lunchtime treatment. They are loved by beauticians and dermatologists alike but certain peels are medical-only and we are pleased to offer these.

In beautiful Brighton and Hove, we love to spend time outdoors, whether it is on the beach, in the sea, walking in the South Downs National Park or spending a day wandering around a beautiful Sussex village with an al fresco lunch. While this is all great fun, we are susceptible to sun damage and this is something peels work exceptionally well for. So being a Hove skin clinic, we thought a blog on chemical peels would set the record straight and remove fears!

What are chemical peels?

Acids in some shape or form have been used since ancient times to improve the condition of the skin. Cleopatra supposedly would bathe in sour donkey milk, taking advantage of the effects of lactic acid to peel off surface layer skin cells. It is also thought that she used powdered excrement from crocodiles to perfect her complexion… Fear not, things are much easier these days!

Peels are solutions that usually contain a single or combination of acids e.g. Glycolic acid, Lactic acid, Salicylic acid but can also contain Retinol. When applied to the skin, they exfoliate it which encourages cell turnover and renewal of the skin.

They remove layers of the skin. The layers they remove depend on the strength of the peel and therefore the ‘depth’ of it. They also stimulate the production of both collagen and elastin so can help to rejuvenate the skin at lower levels than that in which they are active.

What skin types benefit from having a peel?

Most skin types are suitable to have a peel. We have to consider the depth of the peel and the ingredients to ensure the right choice is made for the unique skin type we are treating. For example, acne skin types will benefit from both salicylic acid peels and retinoids. Skin of colour must be treated with extra care when carrying out peels.

A variety of different peels can be used to improve the appearance of sun damaged skin, pigmentation, uneven skin tone, lines and wrinkles, rough texture, appearance of pores, dullness and some can even help with redness.

Let’s talk about depths...

There are 4 depths of chemical peel available:

Very Superficial

These can be done in clinic and can also be purchased over the counter for home use. They are very gentle and remove dead skin cells from the surface providing a smoother surface.

Superficial

These are carried out in clinic and work on the epidermis. They are the most commonly used peels as they do not incur much downtime.
Think alpha and beta-hydroxy acids peels which don’t make you visibly peel but improve the texture and radiance of the skin by also treating pigmentation and sun-damage.
You can expect fresher, brighter skin that will feel smooth to touch.

Medium

These peels are better for more mature skin types with significant sun-damage.
Generally, you can expect to visibly peel with these treatments and also some tightness and mild irritation in the days after.
We have strategies and products that can help to soothe the skin during this time.
But this all pays off with improved results.

Deep

These peels contain ingredients such as Phenol and are carried out under anaesthetic by a doctor.
They are a big deal!
Downtime with these is significant.

Do chemical peels hurt?

There is no pain associated with most chemical peels (even though the name conjures up scary thoughts!). We have already mentioned that deeper peels need to be carried out under anaesthetic but these are completely different to the majority of peels you will encounter in skin clinics and certainly at Noaem Skin – our hove skin clinic.

Some peels will tingle on the skin when applied for a couple of minutes – this will stop on neutralisation. Retinol peels can be completely tingle-free. So don’t let the thought of pain put you off!

What is the downtime after a chemical peel?

This very much depends on the peel you have. We have stronger medical-strength Retinol Peels with which you will visibly peel afterwards for 5-7 days. Some people like this however others can not accommodate it in their professional or social lives.

This has led to the development of some exceptional newer peels which are equally effective without the visible peeling. Skin can sometimes feel dry in the days after a peel however we will advise you on aftercare.

What aftercare is needed after a peel?

Skincare needs to be kept very simple after a peel. A gentle cleanser is required as well as a nourishing moisturiser. The absolute non-negotiable is sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30 but ideally 50.

We are big fans of using the Regenerating Ampoules from All Skin Med after having a peel to enhance the results further.

A word about skin of colour

We need to be very careful when treating skin of colour. Although it may be stronger when tolerating UV light, it is less so when tolerating peels. It is absolutely essential that your practitioner has knowledge and experience in treating skin of colour. Certain acids are a much better option than others and we need to stick to lower depths generally.

Please rest assured that here at Noaem Skin, we are well experienced in treating skin of colour.

Aesthetic Pharmacist Iki’s take on chemical peels

“I am a big fan of chemical peels for a quick fix to brighten up the skin, particularly pre-spring and post-summer. In March/April, we are looking for treatments which will erase the dullness of winter skin. Chemical peels are a great resurfacing option even at superficial depths. They are great preparation for the skin before Spring and Summer – just be sure to use a good sunscreen throughout.

Post-summer is another time when peels can be of great benefit. Pigmentation is at its darkest and the skin feels dehydrated and rough in texture due to sun exposure. A peel can quickly freshen up the complexion allowing your home skincare routine to absorb more effectively.

I would recommend having a course of peels rather than a single treatment, to prolong and enhance the benefits to the skin. There is a peel for everyone so don’t hesitate to get in touch with us to find out which would be best for you.”

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